Ripple sole: the successful application of a military invention

Even if you are not invested in the fashion world, chances are you have worn shoes with ripple soles. Featured in myriad sneakers, from Reebok Beatniks to Yeezy boots to Rick Owen Geobaskets, the ripple sole has been a classic silhouette for the better part of the last century. 

Military boots with original Nathan Hack ripple soles

The ambiguous sole has become popular due to its ability to aesthetically embellish any shoe, be it combat boots, derbies, or runners. The appearance, however, is not the sole’s only or even foremost virtue. Ripple soles are also functional and durable.  

Developed in the 1940s by Nathan Hack, the sole was originally designed to help soften the impact of landing paratroopers. Hack saw his work as a contribution to the war effort, rather than creative endeavor. After successful field attempts, the sole was deemed functional and the design was given to the US army royalty free.

The sole’s design is ingenious. Named for their defining characteristic, the ripple sole features a series of “waves” (or ripples) that run horizontally from the heel to the tip of the toe. Positioned towards the heel and running at about 65 degrees from the sole, they feature a wide base that narrows into a slightly rounded tip. The sole is crafted from a composite of leather and rubber, which absorbs impact force. Combining carefully engineered ripples and cushioning material granted soldiers shock-absorbtion like no other shoe. The soles were also found to improve walking, as the design creates a spring-like action that propelled wearers. 

Nathan Hack posing with ripple soles | 1966

The soles were coveted by soldiers for their cushion and overall comfort. By the 1950’s, following their military success, the soles began to be applied to shoes for non-soldiers to alleviate walking problems, pain, and boost athletic performance. The ripple sole proved to be popular among everyday civilians, particularly those who did a lot of walking or standing. Apart from its physical benefits, the sole’s proliferation was helped by its availability; it could be added to any shoe, unrestricted by make or model. But despite the positive public reception, production of Nathan Hack patent soles stopped sometime in the 60s. This pause in production, however, did not kill ripple soles.

Original advertising for the ripple soles | 1956

Many military soldiers used to the ripple sole had a hard time using the issued lug sole boots, so they re-soled them with any ripple soles that they could find, be it Nathan Hack patent soles or off brand. The soles also had a strong impact in the public, as many designers looked to copy, innovate, and reinvent the famed soles. During the 60’s and 70’s, notorious footwear designers like Totino and V.I.P. created models based on the ripple sole. More importantly, the ripple soles were adapted by many athletic wear brands. New Balance created their version of ripple soles with the new balance “Trackster” in the 60’s while Adidas dropped their own mini ripple sole in the 70’s with the “Antelope” and “Rom” models. 

New Balance “Trackster III” ad | 1973

Since then, the soles have been adapted to many shoes by many designers. In the 80’s and 90’s, the ripples and the mini ripple sole were adapted to running shoes such as Nike Cortez, Adidas Sao Paulo, and many Spot Bilt models. Other brands like Reebok adapted the sole to more experimental shoes like the Beatniks along with their rippled running shoes. It is also during this time that the sole made forays into the punk scene, through models like the Dr. Martens Church Ripple and the engineer boot by Vivienne Westwood and George Cox. 

Nike Cortez

In the past 20 years, the sole has started to make its way into high fashion again, used to give shoes a more interesting and rugged look. Designers like Rick Owens, Raf Simons and Ann Demeulemeester favor the sole. Kanye West is another obsessee. The rugged sole has been a staple of Yeezy boots since the label’s conception, and have begun to make constant appearances in other Yeezy silhouettes, like the most recent sandals. Re-issue of past designs has further increased ripple sole visibility, like the aforementioned Beatnik and the Vivienne Westwood and George Cox boots. 

Raf Simons Velcro high tops

Rick Owens Geobaskets

Adidas Yeezy Slides | 2019

Although this later adaptation has been mostly for aesthetic purposes, many brands dedicated to athletic wear have attempted to recreate and enhance the functionality of the soles with modern technology.

In the athletic department, both Adidas and Reebok created shoes trying to replicate the ripple sole function. Adidas’ appropriately named “Springblade” consisted of 16 curved “blades” that were meant to react to the environment and give the user a propelling push. These shoes would be re-interpreted by Rick Owens, who has worked on many shoes with ripple soles. 

Adidas Springblade 3.0

Rick Owens x Adidas Springblade Low | Spring Summer 2015

Reebok’s Zigtech sole, to take another example, features a “zigzag” foam sole that closely resembles the ripple soles. The main differences between the two is that the Zigtech’s ends are squared (not pointy) and that the Zigtech’s “teeth” are hollow. Both of these shoes are prime examples of ripple sole reimagination with modern materials, and expansions of Hack’s original conceit. 

Reebok Zigtech sole

The fact that the sole has survived to be used today by modern brands is a statement to its initial genius. Though the purpose of the sole today is more aesthetic than practical, they are still venerated and the original designs remain highly desired.