The evolution of the Kepi hat

Charles de Gaulle wearing a French Kepi (left) and Yohji Yamamoto SS15 (right)

The Kepi hat is a garment with a very long military history, which can be traced back to the 14th century. The development of this particular hat begins with the invention and eventual widespread use of gun powder, which made armour helmets obsolete. This discovery revolutionized warfare, which resulted in not only a change of armament, but also of uniforms.

Medieval armour (left) and a number of British hats over the years (right)

Without a need to wear heavy armour on the head, most soldiers opted for a broad-brim hat, which became prevalent amongst most armies. This hat was pinned up for commodity, acquiring the name of cocked hat. Despite its good qualities, this light piece of headwear was eventually overshadowed by the Shako towards the end of the 18th century. This new trend originated in the Hungarian army, which wore a tall hat with a small visor.

Shakos worn by Hungarian Hussars

One of the main functions that this peculiar hat served was to increase the overall height of soldiers in order to strike fear on their enemies. This was a very different period in time, when armies valued aesthetic more than practicality, as their bright and highly decorated uniforms indicate. The best example of this trend are the Prussian winged Hussars, who wore giant wings on their back to appear more imposing.

Portrait of a Heavy Cavalry Polish–Lithuanian Commonwealth Winged Hussar.

As warfare evolved, practicality became vital and the importance placed on the appearance of soldiers began waning. This is exemplified by conflicts like the initial French occupation of Algeria in the 1830s and the American Civil War in the 1860s. 

portrait of three Union soldiers wearing kepis during the American Civil War

Part of the appeal of bright and tailored uniforms was to impress other European armies. However these European powers didn’t care much to impress their colonial subjects and their American counterparts did not care much for European standards. Thus, a new hat began to take the stage. Based on the silhouette of the shako, but with a smaller and lighter build, the Kepi was preferred among troops for its additional comfort.

Another version of a Kepi worn by union soldiers during the American civil war

Since then, the kepi hat has taken many forms, with many armies having unique takes on the characteristic shape. In the past century, the use of these hats has been popularized by prominent military leaders like Charles de Gaulle and Fidel Castro. 

American farmer wearing a light kepi (left) and different iterations of Kepis by European armies (right)

Due to the wide use of these hats, the many emblematic characters who often donned them, and the many armies who use it as part of their uniform, many designers have chosen to re interpret them into their own world. The amount of designers that have taken on this iconic design is almost as big as the amount of armies that still wear kepis to this day.

Rick Owens SS08 Blistered Leather Cap (Right) and Raf Simons FW02 VIrginia creeper hat with balaclava

A beautiful example comes from SS08 by Rick Owens, where he reinterpreted the iconic cap in a blistered leather, which perfectly blends with his brutalist aesthetic. Raf Simons also reinterpreted the cap for his iconic “Virginia Creeper” collection, albeit with different materials and a very interesting attached balaclava.

Another version of Raf SImon’s FW02 cap (left) and Fidel Castro wearing a kepi (right)

This deisgn has also been the focus of a number of Japanese designers. Brands like Kapital and Visvim have often done faithful iterations to the iconic hat, with a focus of craftmanship and quality. Here we can see the detailing of Kapital’s “Old Man and The Sea,” which has become a staple of the brand, and a perfect example of Kapital’s characteristic aesthetic.

Kapital “Old Man and The Sea” cap (top) and Visvim Hat (bottom)

Other more streetwear focused Japanese brands like Undercover and Phenomenon have also interpreted the cap. Here we can see Undercover’s take, with an interesting “tiger” cammo, along with Phenomenon’s unique “water drop” pattern.

Undercover (top) and Phenomenon (bottom)

There are, of course, countless other examples of designer’s take on the kepi, which are not included here. However, this model is just another example of the wide influence of military garments, and it illustrates how far back we can trace some of the garments that we wear to this day.

Honorable mention: Tyler The Creator wearing a British Kepi