The Kepi hat is a garment with a very long military history, which can be traced back to the 14th century. The development of this particular hat begins with the invention and eventual widespread use of gun powder, which made armour helmets obsolete. This discovery revolutionized warfare, which resulted in not only a change of armament, but also of uniforms.

Without a need to wear heavy armour on the head, most soldiers opted for a broad-brim hat, which became prevalent amongst most armies. This hat was pinned up for commodity, acquiring the name of cocked hat. Despite its good qualities, this light piece of headwear was eventually overshadowed by the Shako towards the end of the 18th century. This new trend originated in the Hungarian army, which wore a tall hat with a small visor.

Since its conception in 1943 the iconic M43 design has been reinterpreted and referenced by many designers and has had a significant impact in the work of designers like Hedi Slimane, Rei Kawakubo, and Kris Van Assche. These designers have incorporated elements of the M43 and its construction in their repertoires, dousing them with their own vision and often rendering the references unrecognizable. The particular cuff has been modified, moved, enlarged, narrowed, and exaggerated to highlight the construction of the shoe, to reference different movements or cultures, and to create an entirely new type of shoe. To understand the influence that these boots had on the aforementioned designers, we need to take a closer look at the footwear in their respective repertoires.

Even if you are not invested in the fashion world, chances are you have worn shoes with ripple soles. Featured in myriad sneakers, from Reebok Beatniks to Yeezy boots to Rick Owen Geobaskets, the ripple sole has been a classic silhouette for the better part of the last century.

The ambiguous sole has become popular due to its ability to aesthetically embellish any shoe, be it combat boots, derbies, or runners. The appearance, however, is not the sole’s only or even foremost virtue. Ripple soles are also functional and durable.